One week in North Western Tuscany
The beauty of the Tuscan landscape
A 7-Day Road Trip Through North Western Tuscany: Exploring the Heart of Italy
If someone asked me which region best represents the essence of Italy, my answer would undoubtedly be Tuscany. This enchanting region embodies everything you imagine when you think of Italy: stunning medieval towns like Florence, Siena, and Lucca, with their awe-inspiring architecture and bustling piazzas; endless open roads framed by lush, green fields; and iconic cypress-lined avenues that have become synonymous with the Tuscan landscape.
While Tuscany has a reputation for being overrun by expats and tourists, there are still many hidden gems waiting to be discovered. As Italy's fifth-largest region, there's a lot to see, and while it's possible to explore it all in seven days, I prefer the "Slow Travel" approach. Instead of rushing from one destination to the next, I spent a week in North Western Tuscany in early April, and it turned out to be one of my favorite trips to date.
An old Tuscan villa in Lucca
I limited myself to two big destinations per day, and sometimes only one. I’m an early riser, even on holiday, so I tended to be in the car by about 9.30am. This gave me time to have an obligatory Cafè e Cornetto (or coffee and croissant in English), and a bit of people watching at Cavallini’s in Vicopisano before I hit the open road.
I don’t like the Autostrada for three reasons.
Have you seen how fast the Italians drive??
I’m a solo traveller on a budget so avoid tolls where possible.
I’d rather be on the back roads with beautiful scenery, even if it takes me a bit longer to get to where I’m going. You find more hidden gems along the way too like that I think.
Armed with little more than a trusty guidebook, a nifty Fiat Cinquecento, and a spontaneous spirit, I embarked on an adventure through some of Tuscany's most beautiful and lesser-known spots. Here’s a day-by-day breakdown of my journey.
Day 1: Vicopisano and Lari
Vicopisano: An Authentic Tuscan Base
Vicopisano
If you're looking for an authentic Tuscan town to base yourself in, Vicopisano ticks all the boxes. Located just 25 minutes southeast of Pisa airport, it's incredibly easy to reach by car. The town boasts incredible architecture, fabulous restaurants, and one of the best wine bars I've ever visited. Plus, it's perfectly situated for day trips to Florence, Siena, Lucca, and even the coast. Best of all, it's almost devoid of foreign tourists.
If you need expert advice on where to stay, check out Authentic Tuscany. Marie and Lorenzo who own it are fonts of knowledge and have incredible holiday rentals available.
Top Tips:
Stay on Via Lante: For a truly authentic experience, find accommodations in the heart of the old town.
Free Parking: There's ample free parking by the river, just a stone's throw from the town center.
Must-Try Restaurant: Check out 30 Metri Quadri for the best Spaghetti Carbonara outside of Rome.
Lari: A Hidden Gem
The Piazza in Lari from the castle rooftop.
Lari is a medieval hilltop town with a castle at its center, surrounded by a small borgo. When I visited in April, the town was almost deserted, making it feel like my own private Tuscan retreat. Located about 30 minutes south of Vicopisano, the scenic drive to Lari offers a real taste of Tuscany.
Top Tips:
Castle Views: Climb to the top of the castle for 360-degree views of the surrounding area.
Martelli Pasta: Visit the building belonging to the iconic Martelli Pasta brand.
Gelato Stop: Don't miss the Gelateria Artigianale for a sweet treat.
Day 2: Lucca
Lucca: The Mini Florence
Wandering the backstreets of Lucca.
Often referred to as a mini Florence, Lucca is a stunning city that lies at the foot of the Apuan Alps and the Pisan mountain range.
It's filled with incredible churches, beautiful piazzas, and charming narrow streets lined with food shops, upmarket wine bars, and chic Italian boutiques. The city's intact 4.2km Roman walls are a must-see, offering fabulous views whether you walk or bike around them.
Top Tips:
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro: Enjoy lunch or an aperitivo at one of the pizzerias or cafes in this lively piazza.
Free Parking: There are plenty of free car parks on the outskirts of the city, within a 10-15 minute walk of the walls.
Torre Guinigi: Climb this 14th-century tower for incredible bird's-eye views of the city.
Piazza dell'Anfiteatro in Lucca.
Day 3: San Gimignano and Siena
San Gimignano: A Medieval Masterpiece
People watching in the piazza in San Gimignano
San Gimignano has to be one of the most beautiful towns in all of Italy..
But a word of caution before I go any further! It’s also one of the most popular tourist places in Tuscany so arrive early!!
I had one of the most incredible drives of my life, getting from Vicopisano to San Gimignano. I set off by 9am and took the scenic route via Montaione (well worth a stop if you have time) and the landscape as I climbed higher and higher was breathtaking.
San Gimignano is a well deserved UNESCO site, and when you step into the heart of this incredible 14th century Tuscan jewel, it’s easy to see why. The skyline of Medieval towers can be seen from miles away, and wondering the streets and piazzas is like stepping back in time.
Do not miss San Gimignano if you are coming to Tuscany!
Top Tips:
Early Arrival: Find free parking on the outskirts of town if you arrive early enough.
World-Famous Gelato: Treat yourself to a gelato from the renowned Gelateria Dondoli in the main piazza. (The raspberry and rosemary is insanely good!)
City Walls: Head to the city walls for outstanding views across the Tuscan countryside.
Soak up the Tuscan countryside from the town walls in San Gimignano
Siena
Siena: The Heart of Tuscany
Full of stunning architecture, a breathtaking Duomo and a vibrant rich atmosphere Siena is a feast for the senses.
It’s about a an hours drive from San Gimignano heading south. I avoided the autostrada and drove via Monteriggioni, but if you want to get there quicker you can pay the tolls and do it in about 45 mins.
I parked at a multi storey car park below the city at Risalita San Francesco, and took advantage of the free underground escalator system to take me up to the top of the city. (It’s a steep climb up otherwise!).
You can easily spend a whole day in Siena, but even a long afternoon is enough to see some of the best sights.
There’s a real grittiness to the city which I loved. The buildings that flank the narrow alleyways and streets are tall and old. Washing hangs from the windows and it feels utterly authentic.
Which I adore.
Top Tips:
Nino & Friends: Visit this artisan food shop for amazing chocolates and liqueurs with free tasters.
Piazza Del Campo: The beating heart of Siena, where you can relax with a gelato or cold drink.
Siena Duomo: This cathedral is a must-see, with its incredible mosaics and black-and-white striped columns. Be sure to book tickets in advance.
The Duomo in Siena
Day 4: Barga and Bagni di Lucca
Barga: A Hidden Treasure
The breathtaking views from Barga
Barga is undoubtedly one of the most underrated and undiscovered towns in Tuscany.
Nestled high in the hills (actually I’d call them small mountains) in the Garfagnan area of North western Tuscany, in the province of Lucca, it is a MUST see on a road trip if you’re in the area. Follow the route from Lucca along the Lima river and you soon start climbing up into the mountains.
Barga is an absolute delight to spend a few hours or even a whole day in.
The views from the cathedral at the top of the town are outstanding, and the air is so clean you will leave feeling refreshed and rejuvenated.
Barga has the largest Scottish expat community in Italy, and you can see Scottish influences dotted throughout the town (including a fish and chip shop!). It is filled with vibrantly painted buildings and cobbled streets to wander around. And it’s small enough that you would find it hard to get lost.
If you’re an outdoor person there’s plenty to do in the area such as hiking, kayaking, and mountain biking. The landscape is truly beautiful.
Top Tips:
Aperol with a View: Grab a seat at La Loggia del Capretz and enjoy the stunning views with an Aperol in hand.
Hiking: If you're into outdoor activities, there are plenty of hiking trails in the area.
Take a hike up to the Collegiata di San Cristoforo cathedral. It is a stunning place to sit and breathe in the air after a wander around the inside.
Take in the view with a cheeky Aperol at la Loggia Del Capretze in Barga
Bagni di Lucca: A Serene Stop
Ponte Del Diavolo
On my way back from Barga, I stopped at Bagni di Lucca, a picturesque mountain town famous for its thermal springs. It's the perfect place to relax and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere.
Top Tips:
Ponte del Diavolo: Stop by this ancient bridge dating from 1100 AD on your way to or from Bagni di Lucca.
Thermal Springs: Treat yourself to a relaxing spa day at one of the many wellness centers in town.
Day 5: Pistoia and Vinci
Pistoia: A Cultural Delight
Pistoia turned out to be one of my favourite places that I visited during my week in Northwestern Tuscany.
It is such an underrated city. . There is architecture to rival Florence, it’s easy to navigate, and on Sundays the place has a relaxed and slow vibe as the piazzas fill with families and friends enjoying what Italians do best.
Eating incredible food and drinking amazing wines as they socialise and spend time together. I don’t know of another country that takes meal times so seriously.
Pistoia was rightly names Italys capital of culture in 2017, yet it still has an air of secrecy about it. I hadn’t even heard of it before 2024!
The main square is a Renaissance delight, and you can easily spend a few hours just mooching around the town's main museum and some of the modern art galleries. I think everyone else must have been in Florence and Lucca for the day when I was there as it was almost deserted!
Glorious views from the museum in Pistoia
Top Tips:
Piazza della Sala: Enjoy a coffee or lunch at one of the numerous eateries in this lively square.
Palazzo Comunale: Don't miss the art collection in this Renaissance building—it's a hidden gem.
Vinci: The Birthplace of Leonardo
The view from Santa Croce in Vinci
Vinci is a beautifully preserved medieval town, famous as the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci.
The town is dedicated to his life and work, with several museums and historical sites to explore.
I wish I’d had more time to explore Vinci. Situated on the slopes of Montalbano due North of Pistoia, it’s a gloriously preserved medivval tone and birthplace of the great man himself. (That's Leonardo just in case you were wondering…)
The whole town is dedicated to Da Vinci and if you're into museums then you won’t be short of choices. I can imagine it gets very busy in high season, but in early April it wasn’t overcrowded. The actual birthplace of Leonardo is in Anchiano about 3km from the town centre, and if you feel like walking you can follow the Green Route, an historic path that takes you to the farmhouse which is now a museum and open to the public.
This is a great website full of info about the town and surrounding area.
Top Tips:
Santa Croce Church Tower: Climb to the top for panoramic views over the town and surrounding countryside.
Interactive Da Vinci Museum: Great for families, this museum offers hands-on exhibits of Da Vinci's inventions.
Day 6: The Tuscan Coast and Castagneto Carducci
Exploring the Tuscan Coast
After nearly a week inland, I headed west to explore the Tuscan coastline. Driving from Livorno to Piombino, I found beautiful swimming spots, charming seaside towns, and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean.
There are plenty of places to stop on the drive down to Piombino, (where the ferries for the island of Elba nearby depart from). Small seaside resorts and towns line the coast, and this is where thousands of locals head to escape the oppressive summer heat during July and August.
A moment to breathe in Livorno
Top Tips:
Quercianella: Stop at this tiny coastal spot for crystal-clear water and a tranquil vibe.
Serendipity Restaurant: Enjoy a seafood lunch with a stunning ocean view at this gem in San Vincenzo.
Castagneto Carducci: A Step Back in Time
Peace and quiet in Castagneto Carducci
On my way back inland, I stumbled upon Castagneto Carducci, a charming town that feels like stepping back in time. With its cobbled streets and historical buildings, it's easy to lose yourself for a few hours here.
If you are in the area I urge you to take a stop here, it is the epitome of a rural authentic Tuscan town.
Top Tips:
Authentic Italian Shop: Visit the old-world Italian food shop near the Carabinieri building on Via del Bambolo.
Historic Charm: Wander the cobbled streets and soak in the town's timeless atmosphere.
Reflecting on Tuscany
The whole region of North Western Tuscany is a treasure trove of beauty and culture. I could easily spend a month here and still not see everything. Although I didn’t make it to Florence on this trip, I plan to return for a long weekend, preferably out of season to avoid the crowds.
I hope this post has inspired you to plan your own Tuscan adventure. Whether you're drawn to the stunning architecture, the breathtaking landscapes, or the rich culture, Tuscany has something for everyone.
Baci, Sarah x