Diary of a Tuscan Bookshop

The bookshop up above the clouds in Tuscany

The Start of My Tuscan Adventure

The seeds for my first Tuscan road trip were sown in a shop owned by my friend Sarah, in the small town where I live near the Devon/Cornwall border.
We hadn’t had a real bookshop in town since I moved here 13 years ago, so when Sarah announced she would be stocking a selection of reading material in her lovely shop, I was instantly excited.

Discovering "The Diary of a Tuscan Bookshop"

It was a cold and wet Tuesday in March when I popped into The Byre to see what books Sarah had chosen for her shelves. I ran my eye over the selection of cookbooks and local interest titles, and then onto the Fiction section.
A slim, inconspicuous book caught my eye. The title read "The Diary of a Tuscan Bookshop". It was a memoir by renowned Italian poet and author, Alba Donati, about how she brought her whole village together at the beginning of the pandemic by opening a tiny bookshop.

The book that inspired a 1200km Tuscan road trip

An Obsession with Tuscany

I devoured the book in a few days, followed by binge-watching all three series of The Medicis on Netflix, and then the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. I was hooked.
I booked a return flight to Pisa, picked up a little Cinquecento, and spent a glorious week staying in Vicopisano, halfway between Lucca and Florence.

Setting Off to Find the Bookshop

Among all the places I wanted to visit during my 7-day trip, it was the bookshop that inspired the journey which excited me the most. All I had was a postcode and my trusty sat nav.

In the book, author Alba Donati describes her little bookshop, opened during the pandemic, as being located in a small town at the top of a hill. Having done no prior research, I imagined it would be a town like those found in the Sabine Hills of Lazio—rookie mistake.

The Scenic Drive Through Tuscany

Leaving Vicopisano: Heading Toward Lucca

I set off from Vicopisano on my second day in Tuscany, first heading west towards Lucca and then due north. The landscape quickly shifted from open fields to lush forests as the outline of the Apuan Alps loomed closer.
The main road from Lucca runs alongside the Serchio River, whose crystal-clear alpine waters and small rapids glistened in the warm April sunshine.

Entering Garfagnana: A Nature Lover's Paradise

This area is a haven for adventure enthusiasts, offering opportunities for rafting, kayaking, hiking, and mountain biking. As I drove further into the valley, with the mountains towering above me, I realized the bookshop might not be on top of a hill after all!

Passing Iconic Landmarks

Ponte del Diavolo

I passed the famous Ponte del Diavolo (Devil's Bridge) at Borgo a Mozzano and made a note to stop there on my return journey. After crossing the river at a small medieval village called Ghivizzano, I began climbing the narrow, winding road.

Reaching Lucignana: The Village of the Bookshop

Navigating Narrow Roads and Unexpected Encounters

The road grew narrower at each bend, and I held my breath in case someone was coming down the mountain from the opposite direction. My little 1.2 Fiat Cinquecento suddenly didn’t feel like the ideal car for this terrain, but I was determined to find the bookshop!
I passed a peloton of sexy Italian cyclists speeding down the mountain and even saw a snake slither across the road. After a 20-minute climb, I finally arrived in Lucignana, the tiny hamlet where the bookshop is located.

First Impressions of Lucignana

Breathtaking views across the Apuan Alps

To give you an idea of how small Lucignana is: its population in 2021 was just 147.

I parked my car in front of the village church and stepped out to take in the breathtaking views of the mountain range. The total peace and quiet was instantly soothing for my senses, and I knew in an instant that whatever else happened that week or where I ended up in Tuscany, the whole trip had been worth it just for this moment. 

Discovering the Bookshop: Libreria Sopra la Penna

A Hidden Gem for Book Lovers

Libreria Sopra la penna

Following my GPS, I walked up a steep cobbled path, with birds and butterflies as my only companions. Suddenly, I saw a small sign hanging from a wall: Libreria Sopra la Penna.
Entering through a wrought iron gate into a terraced garden felt like stepping into a scene from a Lewis Carroll novel. The bookshop, essentially a wooden cabin perched on the edge of the mountain, was rustic, colorful, and a treasure trove for any bibliophile.

Inside the Bookshop

The shelves were filled with classics like Bronte and Austen, alongside poetry books by Italian authors. Charming little touches, such as bookmarks and trinkets, added to the experience. The terrace, filled with vintage tables and chairs, invited visitors to pick a book off the shelf and sit a while.

Inside the Tuscan Bookshop

A Serene Experience at Libreria Sopra la Penna

Soaking in the Views

The views across the mountains were simply breathtaking. English tea and biscuits were offered, completing the experience. If you're in need of a mindful hour or two to contemplate life, the universe, and everything in between, the Tuscan bookshop is where you need to be.
Surrounded by wildflowers and butterflies, you’ll find a brief moment of peace where everything makes perfect sense.

The Tuscan Bookshop...where time stands still

Why You Should Visit Libreria Sopra la Penna

If you ever find yourself in northwestern Tuscany, particularly in the Garfagnana region, and you have a car—or even a strong pair of legs and a road bike—you must visit La Libreria Sopra la Penna.
This quaint, mountain bookshop offers a unique and tranquil experience for book lovers and adventurers alike.

Ciao, Sarah x

On top of the world at La Libreria Sopra la Penna

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