A TUSCAN CHRISTMAS
Food, Markets and Magical Moments
The Medieval Borgo of Castelfalfi
Having returned from Tuscany in mid-November, I was immediately desperate to go back. So, when I was offered the chance to house-sit at the same property I’d stayed in during my previous visit—this time over Christmas—I jumped at it. Before you could say “Buon Natale!”, I was searching for a flight from Bristol to Pisa.
As someone looking to relocate to Tuscany, I want to experience the region in every season. It's easy to fall in love with Tuscany during the romantic warm autumn days or when wildflowers bloom in the spring, but I needed to see if I was just as captivated by its charm in the heart of winter. Spoiler alert: I was.
A Medici hunting lodge in Buti with the moon and venus behind.
Arrival in Tuscany: A Winter Wonderland
I landed in Pisa on a gloriously sunny day in mid-December. The snow-capped peaks of the Apuan Alps glistened in the distance as I made my way to Ghizzano. The vineyards, with their rows of dormant winter vines, and the iconic rolling hills were as magical as I remembered. Tuscany's charm doesn’t take a seasonal break—it’s always enchanting.
Experiencing an Italian Christmas
This was only my second time celebrating Christmas outside the UK in 53 years, and I had no idea what to expect. One thing became clear immediately: Italians take Christmas very seriously. Many people take two full weeks off, only returning to work after January 6th, which marks the Feast of the Epiphany and the official end of the festive season.
Even the smallest towns light up their medieval streets and piazzas with Christmas decorations and host communal events leading up to Christmas Eve.
The Christmas tree at the Castelfalfi Festive Market
A Magical Christmas Market in Castelfalfi
I was determined to experience an Italian Christmas market, and I didn’t have to travel far. My good friend Marie from Authentic Tuscany joined me in Ghizzano, and we headed to the medieval borgo of Castelfalfi for their Christmas festivities.
The cobblestone streets were lined with wooden huts where local artisans sold their crafts. The smell of roasting chestnuts and Vin Brulé (mulled wine) filled the crisp December air. Performers dressed as characters from The Nutcracker entertained the crowd, while children eagerly queued to visit Santa in his medieval townhouse. The highlight of the evening was a gospel choir performing outside a quaint chapel. Their infectious enthusiasm had us singing and dancing along, fully immersed in the Christmas spirit.
Italian Festive Food Highlights
Food is an essential part of Italian culture, and Christmas is no exception. Where I stayed in Tuscany, I discovered the pasticceria Jolé in La Rosa, just outside Peccioli. Their cornetto con pistacchio became my daily indulgence, though my New Year’s waistline wasn’t as grateful.
Next door, the Tuscan deli La Fattoria Nuova offered a mix of Sicilian and Tuscan treats. Their homemade arancini and caponata were divine, but the real showstopper was their artisanal panettone. With flavors ranging from the classic candied fruit to ginger and lemon, pear and chocolate, and my favorite—pistachio cream—I was in festive heaven. Did you know panettone originated in Milan in the late 1400s? It’s like the Italian equivalent of a British Christmas cake but infinitely tastier (in my opinion). It’s light and airy, and I treated myself to one all to myself to keep me going during my stay.
Vicopisano: A Tuscan Christmas in an Enchanting Medieval Town
On Christmas Eve, I joined friends in Vicopisano, the medieval town where my Tuscan adventures began earlier in 2024. After aperitivi in the piazza and a delicious pizza dinner, I woke up on Christmas morning to a perfect espresso and pastry outside the local bar, despite the freezing cold. The sun was shining, and the bar quickly filled with locals brimming with Christmas cheer.
Heading out on Christmas morning in Vicopisano under blue skies
Italian Christmas dinner is a midday feast centered around family, food, and wine. Our six-course meal began with a spiced Christmas cocktail and included delicious plates of antipasti, pasta, fish, dessert, and, of course, panettone. Prosecco and local wines flowed, and the evening ended with music, laughter, and late-night conversations.
It really was a fantastic introduction to my first Christmas in Tuscany, although my head a was little sore the next morning!
The Epiphany and La Befana
The Befana descends from the clock tower in Cascina!
In Italy, the Christmas season extends to January 6th, marked by the Epiphany and the arrival of La Befana. This legendary old witch flies across Italy on her broom, filling children’s stockings with sweets—or coal for the naughty ones.
I celebrated this day in Cascina, a historic town near Pisa with dear friends old and new and we had the most fantastic time. The local firefighters organised an obstacle course for children in the piazza, while the highlight was La Befana’s dramatic descent from the clock tower, showering sweets on the crowd below. Fireworks lit up the evening, and we ended the day with Aperol Spritzes and lively conversation at an awesome pizzeria we discovered near the piazza. .
Reflections on My First Tuscan Christmas
Despite catching a nasty cold around New Year’s Eve, my first Tuscan Christmas was magical. From the festive markets and incredible food to the warmth of the people and unique traditions, it’s a holiday season I’ll never forget. I can’t wait to make Tuscan Christmases a tradition of my own in the years to come.
Beara x